Surfing is a sport on the surface of the water, in which players surf upon or against the waves, letting waves push players toward the shore.
The type of wave that is suitable for surfing is mainly at sea, but can also be found in lakes or rivers. However, players of this sport can also use artificial waves in the pool.
The art of wave boarding originated in the western Polynesian islands more than three thousand years ago. Fishermen were the first to discover riding on the waves, they considered this an effective and very useful method of fishing.
There is no record of exactly how long specific surfing becomes an official sport. However, according to the record, in the 15th century, the king, queen and the entire people of the Sandwich Islands were very enthusiastic about the sport called “he’enalu”. In old Hawaiian, “He’e” means a change from solid state to liquid state and “nalu” refers to the motion of waves. The first Polynesian settlers in Hawaii had very high surfing skills and after a few hundred years of surfing, Hawaiians were famous for their own surfing.
Hawaiians affirm their ability and reputation for surfing. For them, surfing is a cultural tradition. They develop boarding techniques, wooden and beach selections to make surfing and prayers. Surfboards undergo many sacred rituals before being built. Only three types of trees were chosen for planking. The builders will dig up the trees and they will place fish around the roots to worship the gods.
There are 4 types of boards used in ancient Hawaii:
– Paipo or Kioe, a plank of 2 to 4 feet long, reserved for children.
– Alaia (ah-LAI-ah) or omo (O-mo), medium boards about 8 feet long or more.
– Kiko`o is bigger than Alaia but not the largest board, about 12 to 18 feet long that requires skilled skills to handle.
– Olo type long board size from 18 to 24 feet.