Surfing is one of the oldest sport in the world. Wave riding art blends the power and perception of the human person about the beauty and power of nature. Surfing is one of the few sports that create a culture and lifestyle for themselves.
The art of riding wooden wave boards originated in the West of the Polynesian archipelago more than three thousand years ago. Fishermen are the first to discover wave riding, and they see this as an effective and very useful method of fishing. Finally, from a daily basis, surfing sport is developed into a pastime. This change is a great revolution for surfing.
There is no fact of exactly what time surfing becomes official sports. However, according to human records, in the 15th century, the king, queen and all Sandwich people were very passionate about the sport called “he’enalu”. In the old Hawaiian language, “He’e” means the change from solid to liquid and “nalu” and it refers to the motion of waves. The first settlers in Hawaii had very high surfing skills and after several hundred years riding the waves. Since then, Hawaiians have been more famous for their own surfing in sport.
The Hawaiians claim their ability and reputation for surfing. For them, surfing sport is a cultural tradition. They developed the technique of making planks, choosing wood and beaches for surfing as well as prayers. Surfboards must be undergone many sacred rituals before being closed. Only three trees were selected for making the planks. The builders will dig up the trees and they will place fish around the roots to worship the gods.
There are 4 types of boards used in ancient Hawaii to be surfing tools such as:
Paipo or Kioe is a 2 to 4 feet long surfboard designed for children.
Alaia (ah-LAI-ah) or omo (O-mo), medium type board about 8 feet or more.
Kiko is bigger than Alaia, but not the largest, about 12 to 18 feet long, requiring skill to handle.
Olo long boards range in size from 18 to 24 feet.